Delights – Traditional Day Markets (傳統市場)

I have decided day markets are what I would miss the most when we return to the U.S. These day markets are often considered “wet” markets, as opposed to “dry” markets that do not sell produce or meats. Some are open only in the mornings, others only in the afternoons. There are lively sights, sounds and delights at every turn with each stall manned by the same stall owners for decades and maybe for generations. When the markets are in full swing, they pulse with energy and community as people rush around picking up their meal ingredients for the day. Some even pull up in their scooters. The customers are always on the lookout for what’s freshest and in season, while socializing with their favorite vendors. What I love most is the interactions with each vendor who is dedicated to his/her craft and proud of the quality of their products. Shopping is so much more fun and exciting than a grocery store experience and far less expensive. I am most taken by the fact that each stall is a small business and these markets allow the owners to be their own boss, unlike a large supermarket staffed with minimum wage workers. For the best products and very local experiences, my favorites in Kaohsiung include the Ziyou Afternoon Market (自由市場), the Lotus Pond (Zuoying 左營市場) Morning Market, and the San Fong Dry Wholesale Market (三鳳中街), but there are pockets of vendors and markets scattered in every neighborhood worthy of exploring.

As Taiwan is a relatively small land mass, fresh produce is no more than a day or two between being picked and sold at the market. Very few produce is imported as the subtropical climate and high mountains allow for multiple climate zones, with some farms being able to produce three crops per year from the same land. Also, Taiwan used to be a major sugar producer in the world and continues the tradition of having fresh sugar cane available at these markets.

Similarly, seafood is equally fresh with an immense variety as Taiwan has one of the world’s largest fishing fleets.

The poultry varieties do not stop at the everyday chicken. They can include black free-range chicken to geese and ducks, all freshly butchered and not previously frozen. Unfortunately (or fortunately), live animals have been banned from these markets compared to a decade ago when one could get freshly slaughtered poultry on the spot. Whole roasted poultry from head to feet can be easily found as most homes do not have ovens.

Apparently, the Taiwanese also are very particular about their pork, preferring fresh Taiwanese-raised pigs. Butchers offer the full nose to tail cuts, as well as all the offal. They aim to sellout a whole pig within the day as previously frozen pork is far less desirable.

Beyond fresh produce and meats, there are also extensive handmade artisanal preserves and sauces for sale as well as dried fish and seafood. Tofu and associated soy bean products are also available and made fresh daily. There are stands dedicated to just fish cakes of all types and vegetarian meat substitutes that taste as good as the real thing, sometimes better. Watching how spring roll wrappers get made can be mesmerizing.

For those in a hurry, there are seemingly endless options of prepared foods, with each stall having their specialties and loyal following. There are also abundant snacking options for those shopping on an empty stomach.

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